Walker's Haute Route
Introduction
An amazing 225km route from Chamonix at the foot of Mont Blanc to Zermatt at the foot of the Matterhorn with more than 14,000m of ascent passing through 11 cols
The Tour du Mont Blanc is a 170km route around Mont Blanc. It traditionally starts near Chamonix, France passing through Italy then Switzerland before heading back into France to finish in Chamonix. The route involves 10,000m of ascent and 10,000m of descent through stunning scenery.
Having set a goal to do the Tour Du Mont Blanc in 2020, the first lockdown gave me plenty of time to prepare and plan every detail of my route. Throughout I worked to a departure date of 1 July and was delighted that it was able to happened. My friend Lou & I took a flight to Geneva, a bus to Chamonix and headed for the mountains. The route I have outlined below is pretty much the route we took - just slightly improved in places - I can highly recommend it. The Tour du Mont Blanc was a fabulous introduction to hiking in the Alps. What an adventure! Can't wait to go back.
Day 1 Chamonix to Le Peuty
11km, 888m ascent, 888m descent, 5.5hrs
Having walked around Chamonix before I took the train from Chamonix to Montroc and started my hike up to Col de Balme from there. The Refuge at the top was the perfect spot for coffee and home made cake.
Day 2 Le Peuty to Champex
14kms, 1390m ascent, 1200 descent, 8hrs
Big day! On the Tour du Mont Blanc due to weather I had to take the low route and miss out the Fenetre d'Arpette but the weather this day was perfect. I set out early and started the climb. The first part of the day was in out and of woods which offered shade but the path was then exposed. The climb up to the Fenetre was challenging but easy underfoot. Once I passed through to the Val d'Arpette the path is not very stable and you have to cross loose scree and boulder fields - all adding to the fun. But the views were absolutely amazing. The boulder fields give way to woods, meadows and streams and I camped at the first campsite I came to - Realise d'Arpette which I can highly recommend.
Day 3 Champex to Cabane du Mont Fort
18kms, 489m ascent, 863m descent
Initially an easy low level route to La Chable and then you have the option of a climb or a cable car to Les Ruinettes in the beautiful Verbier valley. Wild camping is not permitted in this area but a short 1 hour hike Les Ruinettes takes you to Cabane du Mont Fort. I stayed in a dorm for 4 there and the food and views were amazing.
Day 4 Cabane du Mont Fort to Cabane de la Barmaz
17.2kms, 1122m ascent, 1120m descent, 6hrs
What an amazing day. The path from Cabane du Mont Fort is cut into the mountain side and from the moment you start the views are incredible. Passing through 3 cols - each taking you to more remote and awesome scenery with some rivers to cross. Dorms at Cabane de Prafleurie pack people in which I wasn't keen on so after a delicious rosti I continued on for another 1.5 hours to Cabane de la Barmaz where I had a whole stable to myself. Facilities there are very basic and there is no food available but for me it was the perfect place to stay.
Day 5 Cabane de la Barmaz to Arolla
18kms, 754m ascent, 1374m descent, 6hrs
Today starts with a beautiful walk the length of Lac de Dix, then an ascent up to Pas du Chat and on to the ladders up to Pas de Chèvre - don't look down!
Day 6 Arolla to Les Hauderes
11.5kms, 520m ascent
List Body
Day 7 Les Hauderes to Cabane de Moiry
16kms, 1900m ascent, 1152m descent
For this day you have the choice of the lower route or the climb for the fabulous view from the Fenetre d'Arpette. We planned for the Fenetre d'Arpette variant but with strong recommendations to avoid the variant when bad weather is forecast we had to change to the lower route on the day. There are also 2 possibilities to camp/stay - Col de Forclaz or Le Peuty. If you do the variant via Fenetre d'Arpette staying in Le Peuty makes sense. However the lower route reaches the Col Forclaz first and as the weather had changed and thunderstorms and hail arrived we decided to camp next to Hotel de Forclaz and enjoy lunch and dinner there.
Day 8 Cabane de Moiry to Zinal
12.3kms, 548m ascent, 940m descent, 5hrs
Day 9 Zinal to Gruben
17kms, 1270m ascent, 1100m descent, 6hrs
List Body
Day 10 Gruben to St Niklaus
12.8kms, 1165m ascent, 1028m descent
List Body
Day 11 St Niklaus to Zermatt
23kms, 1549m ascent, 617m descent
The final day has so many treats in store for you. You join the Europaweg trail for the final leg to Zermatt. Often thought of as the most beautiful hike in the Alps this day will not disappoint. Unfortunately parts have been closed due to rockslides so I camped in the valley in Randa and started with an early hike up to the Europaweg Skywalk suspension bridge and from there headed towards Zermatt. The trail is disintegrating in places and ropes and netting have been placed to help keep hikers safe. Glimpses of the Matterhorn marking the end of the hike become more often and as I descended into Zermatt some friends I had made along the way met me with beer for a reunion. What a great trip! I can highly recommend