This was my first visit to South America but Patagonia has been on my list for a long time so once I'd planned my itinerary I wanted to get take the fastest route there.  For me that was flying with Iberia London-Madrid-Santiago-Puerto Natales.  Although all flights connected quickly it still took 20 hours ... and my backpack was still in Madrid.  I arrived at 1430 and a £4 uber took me to the Patagonico Hostel which I can highly recommend.  I had planned to take the 0700 bus to Torres del Paine but that couldn't happen without my backpack, tent & sleeping bag.  

Fortunately my backpack arrived at midday in time for me to make the 1430 bus to Laguna Amarga at the entrance to Torres del Paine.  Once park entrance tickets were shown everyone could board the 20 minute bus to Central (cash required).  You can walk this stretch but I wouldn't recommend it as you have to walk alongside the road and the buses put up a lot of dust.   Fortunately day 1 is only 13.6kms, sunset at 10pm so starting walking at 5 pm wasn't a problem.  I arrived at Seron after 3.5 hours and didn't see a soul on the way.  However, I did pass through huge swathes of pasture with horses roaming freely - it was beautiful.  I had contacted the refuge earlier that day and they kindly agreed to hold dinner for me and it was great to be greeted by name on arrival.  Who else was going to be arriving at 8.30pm?

Seron is a great campsite, flat, plenty of natural windbreaks, great food and I think the showers there (only 2) are the best showers I have ever seen in a campsite ever.  Lashings of hot water too!  The wifi wasn't working but they allowed us all on their business wifi for 10 mins in the morning just to check in with home.  It was a great start.

​

Having travelled close to 10,000kms to the end of South America I was very surprised that some of the first people I met were a couple who live about 8kms from me at home.  It is a small world! T he people on the O circuit, as with all long distance hikes were great and you quickly get to know most people - if not to talk to then by sight and everyone was very friendly. 

The back side of the "O" - days 1-4 were terrific.  When we reached Grey even though we were ready for it, we were shocked by the number of people and commercialisation.   It is still a terrific hike but the back side of the O is the very best part.