GR221 Mallorca
Introduction
140kms through northwestern Mallorca. Also known as Ruta de Pedro Seca - the Dry Stone Route. A World Heritage Site in the Tramuntana Mountains.
I was very excited when Kine, a mad Norwegian girl, I had met on the GR20 in 2021 said she wanted to do this with me. We hadn’t seen each other in 3 years but our love of walking in the mountains kept us in touch. In February 2024 we met again with great excitement in Palma airport and set off to track down small gas cartridges (Kenia Outdoors), then took a taxi to Sant Elm for a great lunch to catch up before we set off around 2.30pm.
Day 1 Sant Elm to picnic spot below Puig des Avencs
10.5kms, 642m ascent, 295m descent, 3 hours
V cloudy and windy. We reached a picnic area where the route joins the road around 5.30pm and decided to wild camp there. We thought it was quite sheltered until the Tramuntana winds picked up during the night. A few vehicles also arrived to stay for the night so I wouldn’t really recommend this spot but there was plenty of room and maybe spending a bit more time selecting the campsite would have been beneficial. Kine’s tent blew down in the night, I slept blissfully through in my Zpacks D.
Day 2 Picnic spot before Ses Fontanelles to wild camp before Esporles
19kms, 988m ascent
We set off in the wind and rain and climbed up into the clouds. We found a spot at Pas d’en Ponsa sheltered from the wind where we made breakfast. Kine loves peak bagging so we had to swing by Mola de s’Esclop 927m but as we were in the clouds we gave Puig de Galatzo 1026m a miss. This preyed on Kine’s mind so once we had finished the whole route she returned to bag that peak before leaving Mallorca. We wandered down to Estellencs where there was only one shop open but it had chocolate so all was good. For most of the route to Banyalbufar the route follows the road which neither Kine nor I were interested in so we took a bus to Banyalbufar where the sun was out . After a great birthday dinner for Kine we followed the GR route up out of town and found a wild camp spot close to the viewpoints above Esporles.
Day 3 Esporles to mountains above Deia
24kms, 1475m ascent
We wandered down to Esporles for coffee in the morning then on to Valldemossa for lunch where we decided to alter the rest of the route to stay in the mountains as much as possible. From Valldemossa we followed the GR221 but quickly turned off to head up to Puig de Teix 1064m and Puig Teixot 1065m and found a fabulous wild camp spot just north of the col where we could take in the gorgeous sunset.
Day 4 Mountains above Deia to Soller
9.5kms, 75m ascent, 1031m descent
We bagged Puig des Vent 1005m and Sa Galera 908m before heading down to Soller. Short day but great opportunity to eat well and rest.
Day 5 Soller to Tossals Verds via the Tres Miles
18.5kms, 1563m ascent, 1060m descent
Big day but the “Tres Miles” (Three x 1000m) is a well known route in Mallorca and as the GR221 passes just below it is seemed a shame not to hit the peaks and take in the views. From Soller follow GR221 through Biniaraix and up to Col d’en Poma then head up above Cuber to bag the Puig de l’Ofre 1091m, Puig de na Franquesa 1061m, Puig de sa Rateta 1113m. Descend via path heading east to Pla S’Aigua continue down to pass through a tunnel then cut across the ravine to rejoin GR221 up to Refuge Tossals Verds. This beautifully situated refuge is very welcoming and we were able to pay for a shower there. We managed to camp close by.
Day 6 Tossals Verde to Son Amer
18.6kms, 1252m ascent, 1222m descent
Tossals Verd to Puig des Tossals Verds 1118m, descend to GR221 via northern path and follow until turn off to Coll de n’Argento then Puig de Massanella 1364m descending eastern path to rejoin GR221 on road 2kms south of Son Amer. There are some wild camping spots just before and after Son Amer.
Day 7 Son Amer to Pollenca
24kms, 1072m ascent
Follow GR 221 for 3.7kms then turn off to ascend Puig Tomir 1104m. Descend eastern path via snow house. We then took path down via Coll del Puig de Ca but it was horrible and it felt like we were in a jungle much of the time. If I were doing it again I’d try the descent via Pas del Diable to rejoin GR route into Pollenca. We finished at Mare de Deu del Puig where we wild camped overlooking the city.
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