GR20
Introduction
The GR20! The hardest hike in Europe! What a reputation! 180kms, 12000 metres of height gain/loss that winds its way through the jagged spine of mountains that run from the northwest to southeast of Corsica. This fabulous hike can be split into 16 stages but it is easy enough to double up some of the stages and complete it in less time. However, there are many side trips and additional peaks you can take in and I would recommend not rushing the experience as once it is over it is over ....... until the next time.
When?
Last week of June to 3rd week of September. There are people starting daily and if you stick to the set stages you will quickly get to know your fellow hikers
Getting to Calenzana
Public transport isn't great on Corsica so I recommend flying directly into Calvi airport. Even if you have to take 2 flights to do this it will make your life much eaiser. From Calvi airport you can take a taxi to Calenzana for 40 euros. There aren't enough taxis to transport everyone but if there are none when you exit the airport just wait and they will return from their previous journey. You can also buddy up with other hikers to share a taxi.
Where to stay in Calenzana
Camping is available at the Gite d'Etape Calenzana which is just 200m from the town. Reservations are not necessary, there is a kitchen, power points for charging and 2 showers. The ground is rock hard but it will give you a good taste of the type of terrain you will be camping on. I had to tie one end of my tent to a tree and guy lines to rocks. The earlier you arrive the better!
Alternatively you can book into a hotel or gite in town. I can highly recommend B&B at U Mandarinu in the centre of town which I used on my second visit to the GR20. It was such a treat to be able to get up at 0500 with my bag already packed and ready to go that first day.
Day 1 Calenzana to Refuge d'Ortu di u Piobbu
And you're off! Walk up the main road through Calenzana and turn right by Le GR20 bar restaurant and follow the red and white flashes. Aim to reach Bocca a u Saltu within 3 hours of leaving Calenzana. This is a perfect spot for a break & snack with a gorgeous view back to Calvi. If it is windy there is a shelter. The path continues down to the right and soon the scrambling begins up through the forest, higher and higher with fabulous views. The scrambling today is a great introduction of what is to come with some chains to help in places.
The refuge is on a rocky outcrop with little shade. The first time I arrived there I booked the menu du jour - must be booked by 1600 for 1830 and it was truly awful - a black watery lentil soup and a dry pasta dish. The second time I made sure I carried a dehydrated meal for that first night but others reported the meal as being ok. So a bit of a lottery but there are cooking stations at each refuge and provisions to buy if you want to cook your own.
Day 2 Refuge d'Ortu to Refuge de Carozzu
Be sure to fill up your water supply at the source as you start day 2 as I only found one trickle of water during the day. Expect a fabulous morning with some more scrambling and amazing views and with a steady pace you should reach Bocca Piccata 3hrs 30mins after leaving Ortu. This is the perfect spot to catch your breathe and take in the amazing peaks in front of you. A further 2 hours scrambling up and down takes you to Bocca Carozzu where a long descent down a scree path leads to the refuge. I have read reports of it taking 1'15 to descend to the refuge but I found this scree path the hardest descent of the whole route and it took me a good 2 hours of scree skiing to arrive at the refuge. Lots of shade around the refuge and very friendly staff but I recommend pitching your tent as far as possible from the long drop toilets. I highly recommend visiting the waterfalls, 10 mins from the refuge for a dip and sunbathe if you have the energy. Sign up for the menu du jour on arrival which is served on their fabulous terrace which is a great spot at sunset.
Day 3 Refuge de Carozzu to Ascu Stagnu
Within 10 minutes of leaving the refuge you will cross a suspension bridge and start up the steep Spasimata Slabs. Delay crossing them if they are wet as they become very slippery. Only 6kms today but a hard climb and a tricky steep descent where you might encounter delays on trickier portions due to the volume of people. The final descent through the forest is nice and cool and the ski station is a welcome sight. All travellers converged on the hotel terrace for a well deserved meal and it was a great place of get to know your fellow hikers and talk about the "big" day 4 coming up - reputedly the hardest day of the hike. I treated myself to a room at the hotel (pre-booked) and enjoyed the luxury of having my own hot shower
Day 4 Ascu Stagnu to Auberge U Vallone
Day 4 - the biggest day! Today is the long unrelenting climb to the summit of Monte Cinto. There was a buzz of excitement from everyone as they set off. By now you will recognise many of your fellow hikers and will be wishing each other well as you pass. The route up Monte Cinto is quite exposed and should not be attempted in bad weather. 4 hours climbing should take you to Pointe des Eboulis and you then have the option to climb the final 300m to Monte Cinto. It was quite a relief to know I had now completed the hardest part of the GR20 - the remainder would be challenging but it was a comfort to know that nothing should be harder than what was already done. An hour's hike from Pointe des Eboulis takes you to Bocca Crucetta and when you cross through the gap you will see the long scree descent ahead of you. After 2 hour's descent the path flattens out and you will pass some rock pools and perfect bathing spots. The first refuge you come to is Refuge de Tighjettu but it is well worth continuing another 30 minutes to Auberge U Vallone for shade, grass, bathing spot and excellent food.
Day 5 Auberge U Vallone to Hotel Castel di Vergiss
The day starts off with an easy walk but it soon turns into a steep and rocky scramble up to Bocca di Foggiale. Despite a very early start, I quickly found myself scrambling in full sun and the final 200m up to the Bocca took me through my first snow field. The path to Refuge de Ciottulu di I More lies to the right of the Bocca but I continued straight down to the bottom of the valley. The Golo rivers runs through the valley and there are plenty of rock pools and waterfalls for bathing. The final hour is spent in the shade of birch woods before you emerge onto a road. Turn left and the Hotel Castel di Vergio is 200m on your left. Before starting I had tried to book a room at the hotel but it was fully booked. That was lucky because this was the best campsite of the whole trip. There was plenty of shade and space and the lovely hot, clean showers. There was a decent shop to resupply and a fabulous restaurant that served lunch til 2pm. Prebook dinner as soon as you arrive as space is limited. Enjoy!
Day 6 Hotel Castel di Vergio to Refuge de Manganu
Some hikers had continued onto Manganu after lunch in the hotel on day 5 but I really did enjoy the campsite at the hotel and the rest I had in the afternoon so was glad I didn't do that. The walk to Manganu is not arduous. It passes through patchy woodland and grazing pastures climbing to 1743m where Lac du Ninu is a stunning spot for lunch. The path from Lac Du Ninu is quite flat. 4'30 into the route you will come to Bergeries de Vaccaghja where I have to say the farmers were very grumpy but the cheese magnificent. 45 mins further will bring you to Manganu. Gorgeous spot, plenty of beautiful waterfalls which were divine to sit in to cool down. Not my favourite refuge for food - I had another of my dehydrated meals here and supplemented it with the wonderful cheese I had bought earlier in the day. Lots of cool little camping spots which I loved but cattle roamed and paid no attention to the marked off camping spots which made me a little nervous going to sleep.
Day 7 Refuge de Manganu to Refuge de Petra Piana
With unsettled weather forecast I made an extra early start and was walking by 0430. Flat to start then a steep, rocky climb to the gap at Bocca a e Porte. A short break to take in the fantastic view down to Lac de Capitellu and Lac du Melo then some snowfields (with fixed rope) to cross and scrambling. Refuge Petra Piana is in an amazing location and has some great camping spots on the mountain edge. I was delighted to bag a prime spot on arrival only to regret it when gale force winds set in later in the day. The food at the refuge is excellent, the showers very basic, the guardian very kind. Whilst it makes a lovely stop for lunch, this is a short day and it is easily doable to continue on the high route to the refuge de l'Onda if you would like to double up a stage
Day 8 Refuge de Petra Piana to Refuge de l'Onda
I had meant to take the high route to refuge de l'Onda which is easier than the low route, easily visible from Petra Piana and offers stunning views but I missed the turning which is marked by yellow flashes and is just outside camp. But taking the low route meant a relaxing day wandering through forests and allowed me to spend time at Bergeries de Tolla sampling their coffee and cake. Refuge de l'Onda has an enclosed campsite to keep the wildlife out- felt like we were the ones in a zoo! The refuge is well known for its lasagne which was highly recommended - we were just a little surprise that it was veggie as this was never mentioned. Delicious nonetheless!
Day 9 Refuge de l'Onda to Vizzavona
Final day of the northern part of the route. I started well before dawn to get a stunning view of sunrise. The steep, stony and scrambly climb to Punta Muratello takes 2'30 - but what views and a great spot for breakfast and a chat with fellow hikers. After follows the long, long winding descent into Vizzavona passing the Cascades des Anglais. Stunning spots but as it was a weekend very busy with day-trippers so I continued on down to Vizzavona. All hikers made to the railway station that served lunch until 2pm. For some this was there end point and I said goodbye to many friends here. However, those of us continuing decided to celebrate the completion of the northern stage with a few shots of Mirto liqueur. Somehow it seemed the right thing to do. I treated myself to a B&B at Chambres d'hotes Casa Alta in Vizzavona - what a beautiful old house - I can highly recommend.
Day 10 Vizzavona to Bergeries d'E Capanelle
Easy hike to Bergeries d'E Capanelle which is known for their pizzas - served until 1pm - don't be late or you won't get any!
Day 11 Bergeries d'E Capanelle to Refuge de Prati
Easy hike to Refuge di Verdi - I feel this could easily be added to Day 10. Refuge di Verdi was lovely - fabulous coffee, pastries, steak, cheese, dessert - breakfast became lunch and I could easily have stayed here. Loved the place! However, it was too early and we continued on for another 2 hours to Refuge de Prati - considerably more slowly than in the morning due to the quantify of food I ate at Refuge di Verdi! The route to Refuge de Prati was very exposed and hot. Thankfully the wind got up to cool me down but brought in cloud. Refuge de Prati is quite bleak and very exposed and whilst the views are wonderful there is not a lot else there. With thunderstorms and hail the size of your fist forecast for 11am most of us arranged an 0400 start
Day 12 Refuge de Prati to Bergeries de Basseta
0400 everyone was ready, head torches on and and off we set. How exciting! We weren't alone - everyone wanted to get off the mountain before the weather turned. What a wonderful community to be part of - everyone helping everyone else. The strongest torch lighting the way for groups with weaker torches. Refuge d'Usciolu was pretty bleak with little food choice so after a breakfast consisting of a mixture of remnants found in bags we continued on.
Day 13 Bergeries de Basseta to Refuge d'Asinau
The forecasted bad weather had arrived so we saw no reason to rush our short stretch today. We started with a leisurely breakfast around a roaring fire and then learnt one of our party could play a mean guitar. Many hours later the start could no longer be delayed and off we went in the pouring rain. Only a couple of hours to a 5 egg omelette for lunch at Bergerie d'I Croci. Once dried out another couple of hours to Refuge d'Asinau. In cold and windy weather the Refuge d'Asinau is in an inhospitable spot. With long queues for the 2 showers and not wanting to sit around outside I headed to bed very early.
Day 14 Refuge d'Asinau to Refuge d'l Paliri
Low level route taken today and a fabulous lunch in Village de Bavella. An easy ascent to Refuge d' I Paliri where a party like atmosphere prevailed. Lots of guitar playing and plenty of bottle of Mirto consumed celebrating our final evening.
Day 15 Refuge d'l Paliri to Conca
Several of us were up to watch sunrise hit Punta Tafunata d'l Paliri - magical!!! The final day's hike delivered just as magnificent views as the rest of the route. A couple of little scrambles through passes and before I knew it I hit the road and the end! What an adventure! What amazing people I met. Everyone heads to the same cafe for the photo finish and suddenly you realise it's over. Wish I'd watched more sunrises, taken more side trips, climbed more mountains. Will have to return very soon for more